Antique side table...before and after!

Today is one of those days when I had to dig around in my photo files to find a project I have not shared.

I had hoped to share more about my home buying and selling process, but since I am in the "frustrating" phase and not yet "on the other side," it is probably not a good time.

I did meet with the Realtors yesterday and we did a walk through of my house. They gave me great tips on staging the house...most I knew I needed to do but it was nice to have confirmation. I have been completing small tasks that I have put off for some time...paint touch up here and there, tile repairs, caulking, etc....but there are always those big things that need to be done. Removing furniture, decluttering MORE, etc. Very helpful! The big hangup right now is the inspection on the place I want to buy! I will go into more detail on that later!

For now, a super simple little project. An old table I bought at an auction months ago. It is one of the projects that languished in my garage for months, only because I knew I had to construct a new top and I just wasn't in the "mood."

As you can see, the top was a total bust so I knew it had to be replaced! The sides and fronts were veneer as well, and they were in pretty rough shape and the original finish had "crackled!" I decided to embrace it all...in other words, I did minimal structural repairs and then applied a "chalk paint" treatment to the base, distressed it, and applied a clear coat.

Two years ago, I bought some solid oak tongue and groove planking at an auction. I have had it stored in one of the storage buildings at the apartments and I have used it occasionally for signs and such. I decided to use it to build a top for this little table.

I cut four pieces the width I needed for the table top, cut and sanded the "tongue" off the front edge, then glued all the pieces together and clamped it. I let it dry overnight.

Originally I just glued and clamped the top to the base...but that did not work! I didn't want to put nail holes in the top so I pre-drilled little holes in each corner, counter-sunk screws, and then glued little oak plugs into the holes.

I stained the top with brown mahogany gel stain and then sealed it with spray on poly.

I think it would make a great little bedside table or side table in a living room...maybe even a tv cabinet...it has the perfect space for electronics.

Simple...again, don't overlook those ratty little pieces you see at garage sales and thrift stores! With just a little bit of effort and imagination, you can turn them into a beautiful and useful piece!

Info

6 Comments

LETTING GO....of FURNITURE, HOMES AND PETS YOU LOVE

This has been a week of "letting go." Of special pieces of furniture, a home I love and a beloved pet. What an emotional roller coaster!

Easiest first....I constantly harp on keeping your home free of clutter. But I am notorious for hanging onto things that were my kids.

It doesn't bother me too terribly much because they each still have their "own" room in my house where their walls are adorned with framed jerseys, flight maps, pictures and diplomas...and their closets are packed with shoes and clothes I know they will never wear again. I have an entire attic full of carefully boxed and labeled childhood "momentos." Specifically every trophy, jersey, letter jacket, report card, certificate, award, newspaper clippings...anything and everything that represents their childhoods is stored in my attic.

One thing I could NOT get in the attic is this little "house shelf" I built and painted for Katie when she was a baby.

I built this cabinet and a little table and "tuffets" for her first Christmas. The table and tuffets are long gone but this little shelf was in her room until she was old enough to put her foot down and demand I remove it. I think it was after the "teal, purple and blue" phase and before the "fail whale/chalk wall."

Since I had no place to put it, it has languished in the garage for years. Brian has begged me to sell it to free up space, but I just could not bring myself to part with it. I wanted it to go to another little girl and I NEVER want it sold in a garage sale for $25.

Wednesday a beautiful little girl came to claim it. She immediately did what Katie did when she was little...curled right up in the cabinet and shut the door. I found Katie sleeping in there on more than one occasion.

Almost made me cry.

So next week the precious little "house shelf" will go to another little girl's room. I told her parents I never wanted it sold...when their daughter is old enough to put her foot down and demand it be taken away, I wanted it given to another little girl or returned to me.

Then...I made an offer on a house and (after weeks of back and forth...its a repo...what a nightmare!) it was accepted. I will go into much more detail in the future, but suffice it to say, I have a MAJOR project on my hands AND I have to get my house ready to sell. Wow...I honestly never thought I would say that about this house!

Don't judge just yet...I know, the colors are all wrong, the landscaping is all wrong, the "lack of architectural style" is all wrong...and don't even get me started on the inside. But I think it has "good bones" and a lot of potential.

Give me time, and all the equity in this house, and I know it will eventually be a great house.

Again, I will share more details later! There are some tremendous upsides to this house...or at least it's "potential." There will be LOTS of projects to share and I am sure the buying and selling process will give me a lot to talk about in the next few months.

Lastly, (and the most heart wrenching).... I had to make the decision to have my precious Molly kitty put to sleep.

She was a week older than Katie...and we have had her since Katie was a newborn. Seventeen plus years. It ripped my heart out to let her go. She was a beautiful, loving, precious kitty!

If you have never had to have a precious pet put to sleep, you are so fortunate. It is a gut-wrenching experience and one I now dread even more since I have a house full of much loved critters that I know I will have to part with someday.

I won't go into gory details, but I dropped her off at Dr. Mark Davis' office Thursday morning. When he called me later that morning (a wonderful, kind friend who happens to be our vet!) he told me what was going on and what our options were. The decision on how to proceed was too much so I asked him what HE would do if she were HIS cat. Considering her age and other health issues, the prognosis was not good...but it ultimately was still my decision. It is a decision one should NEVER have to make. If we dare to even think about it, we all hope our precious pets will just die peacefully in their little beds after a long and happy life. We are not always so fortunate.

I went back up to his office, wrapped her in a towel and spent time holding and petting her. And crying. She knew something was wrong...she always does....if I was ever sick or upset, she knew. She took her little paw and started stroking my face. That made it even worse. There was a moment when I thought I would just walk out the door with her and take her home. But I knew that would not be best for her.

Sometimes letting go means putting aside your own pain and fear and thinking of what is best for someone else.

We have three other cats. And two dogs.

But I don't think I will every have another kitty as special as Molly.

Naturally, I am crying just relating this story. When I am sad I try to think of something funny or happy to keep from "going there."

Years ago my mother had to have her siamese cat put to sleep. I had to explain the process to the boys (then 5 and 4). The "doctor" had to put Amy "to sleep" because she was sick and that meant she had died and we would no longer get to see her. A few weeks later Mitchell developed a rash and my mother looked at it and said I should probably take him to the doctor. He began crying hysterically and refusing to go to the doctor. When I was finally able to get him to calm down enough to understand him, he said through gasps and hysterical tears "I DON'T WANT TO BE PUT TO SLEEP!"

Tough week...letting go can seem unimaginable...whether it is a person, pet, house or a silly piece of furniture! But in the end you have to focus on the positive and keep moving forward! Think of all the wonderful things you miss when you are consumed by and mired down in sadness and grief.

Don't cry because it is over, smile because it happened!

Info

4 Comments

Ugly laminate dresser before and after...

Like old maple furniture, they are a dime a dozen...old "laminate" furniture. The pieces aren't constructed near as sturdy as the old maple furniture (Here, here and here are a few maple pieces I have featured) but if you have a "boring" old laminate dresser sitting around or if you stumble across one at a thrift store or garage sale for next to nothing, it takes little time and effort to bring them back to life!

Like most of these pieces, the top and sides (basically the "box") were all laminate. The drawer fronts were wood veneer.

What is the difference you ask? Basically, laminate is a "plastic" type material over particle board...then a "grain" is printed on to give it a "wood look." Veneer is generally constructed of a real wood top layer glued onto a wood base. It is pretty easy to tell the difference...if it looks and feels like "plastic" it is probably a laminate...if it looks and feels like real wood (but it is not a solid piece of wood) it is probably a veneer.

The biggest difference for me when redoing one of these pieces is I always prime and paint the laminate...usually spray paint. I use a chalk paint treatment on the veneer because I can "distress" it and the "real" wood grain will peek through.

On this little dresser, both the laminate and veneer were in pretty good shape. Sometimes you will see "chipping" on either the veneer or the laminate. Both are relatively easy to repair. First, scrape away any loose pieces. Apply wood filler with a putty knife and then sand it smooth after it dries.

Since we are in the heart of "Razorback country" I decided to give it a black and red treatment. I thought it would look cute in a boy's room or maybe in someone's "man cave" as a tv console.

Again, super simple transformation. I removed all the drawers and then removed the hardware. Replacing hardware can get real expensive, real fast so I decided to give these little pulls a makeover as well. After I removed the pulls from the drawers, I put the screws back in them and stuck them in some old styrofoam (here is a picture example). I primed them with a metal primer and then I sprayed them with the same spray paint I used on the box.

I sprayed the "box" with Kilz, sanded, tacked and then gave it two coats of red spray paint. I painted the drawers with homemade black chalk paint (two coats) and then distressed them a bit. I sealed all the pieces, including the hardware, with clear spray on poly.

If you have an old dresser like this and need inspiration for color or styling, check out Pinterest. There are sooo many inspiration pieces. Some even remove a few of the drawers and add a shelf in the space so it can be used as an entertainment center for a tv and video equipment. I have done that with an old maple dresser and it turned out super cute and perfect for a living room.

I had the chest that matched this dresser...I painted the "box" off-white and the drawer fronts a pretty tealy blue. I redid it months ago and it is long gone! This poor little guy has languished in my garage for months and was one of the many projects I managed to get completed this week during our little warm spell...along with cleaning out the pond (AGAIN!) and washing exterior windows!

Good thing I got a lot done the last few days because today it feels more like winter again.

Info

2 Comments

School desk makeovers...

The temps FINALLY warmed a bit and I was able to get out in the garage and get a few projects done! It is impossible to paint outside, or even in the garage, when it is bitter cold! Yes, I need a heated shop, but since I don't have one I am at the mercy of Mother Nature!

One "project in the waiting" were 5 old school desks I bought at an auction several months ago. I have "repurposed" several old school desks over the years (these oak desks and this cute little metal desk) and it is always one of my favorite projects. Every time I fix up one of these little desks I wish I had done them for my own kids but they are still fun projects because I know some special kid, somewhere, is going to get an awesome little desk!

When I bought these desks I knew immediately what I wanted to do with them...paint the metal legs bright colors and chalkboard paint on the tops!

The first thing I did was give them a good scrubbing. They had been used as plant stands so they were pretty dirty. I scraped off all the gunk and sanded the most glaring scratches and rust.

Rust on metal is common on older metal pieces and it is important to get as much of it off as you can and then use a good metal primer before painting. I usually scrub the pieces with vinegar water (1/2 and 1/2) and steel wool, then prime with a metal primer specifically for rust. ..I use Rust-oleum automotive primer!

I used this process on these outdoor chairs and this old metal typewriter table and both have held up beautifully!

I primed the laminate tops with Kilz. After all the metal primer and Kilz dried well, I sanded them with 0000 steel wool and then wiped them down with a tack cloth to get rid of all the dust!

I sprayed the legs and underside of each desk with spray paint. I usually use Valspar "paint and primer" spray paint...it seems to hold up well and comes in wonderful "designer colors." Keep in mind, even though it SAYS it is a "paint and primer in one" I always prime the pieces first...call me "old school" but I just think it is best to prime first before you paint! Besides, the primary coat will highlight anything that needs to be sanded or patched before the final coat of paint!

I applied chalkboard paint to the tops of each desk with a 4" sponge roller...three coats!

TIP! The trick to a flawless paint finish (other than chalk paint!) is first and foremost the prep! Paint WILL NOT cover up scratches and rough spots. So make sure you sand, tack and prime well before you apply paint.

The trick to spray paint is to apply light coats and allow it to dry well between coats. Spray paint dries fairly quickly so I usually apply additional coats after about 1 hour...too hot or too cold and you will see your "spray lines!"

The trick to getting a good finish when applying paint with a sponge roller on flat surfaces is to apply your paint with the roller, then run the roller in the same direction on the final pass. Think of it like running your hand on velvet...if you run it in different directions, the nap of the fabric will look different...same with paint!

If I am brushing or rolling on latex paint I add Floetrol...oil based paint Penetrol. The additives allow the paints to "level" while drying and will eliminate MOST paint and roller lines. I don't add an additive to chalkboard paint so it is important to run the roller in the same direction on the final pass!

And PRESTO...super precious little makeover!

These little desk are super simple to makeover and since spray paint comes in a multitude of designer colors, you are sure to find a color that will coordinate with any decor!

Info

5 Comments

Why I prefer oil finishes to polyurethane!

I am often asked...why do you prefer oil finishes over polyurethane?

Well, because it is super easy to apply and there is no better finish for durability and touchups!

The ONLY time I use poly is to seal paint finishes...usually Minwax Polyurethane or Valspar clear spray to seal "chalk paint" or spray paint finishes. It's no secret that I am not a big wax fan. I never use poly on stained pieces.

Here I discuss the importance of using a "food safe" oil on butcher block or wood cutting boards. I usually use Watco's butcher block oil finish, even if I am only going to use the cutting board as a decorative item (which is always because I am just "weird" about using wood for cutting food!).

Here I discuss the difference, or rather the lack of difference, between different oil finishes. In a nutshell, the biggest difference is on the label. For me, I prefer Formby's Tung Oil finish...but I have tried Watco danish oil, teak oil finish and several other oil finishes. It is honestly a "personal preference."

And keep in mind, I am talking about oil FINISHES...not REAL tung oil. Real tung oil is a great wood finish, but not exactly something a DIYer really wants (or needs) to experiment with!

Here is why I prefer oil finishes on natural or stained wood...

1) Ease of application. Seriously, it is "idiot" proof! Once you have stripped all the old finish off (doesn't matter if you are stripping a small cutting board or a large table...see a tutorial here!) and applied a stain, the oil finish is super easy to apply! Rub the entire piece lightly with 0000 steel wool, TACK CLOTH THE ENTIRE PIECE (seriously, I can not stress how important it is to use tack cloth whether you are painting or oiling!), and then wipe the oil finish on with a "sponge applicator." (Here I show you how to make super cheap applicators!). I always apply 3-4 coats of oil finish...however many I need to get a nice even finish...rubbing with steel wool and tack cloth between coats!

Oil is a "penetrating" finish so you really want the wood to soak up those first few coats. I usually use a circular motion to apply...kind of like "waxing." Then I just wipe "with the grain."

If you notice a "drip" after a coat has dried, it is super easy to buff it out with steel wool...no biggy!

Seriously, this stuff is super easy to apply!

2) Durability. Oil finishes are super durable...in my opinion, just as durable as poly. To me, poly finishes look "plastic" and tend to mask the texture and depth of a beautiful wood grain!

3) Touch up. This is the real kicker. Oil finishes are super easy to touch up or "bring back to life." I usually re-oil my tables whenever they get scratches or begin to look a little dull.

The first thing I do is rub down the top with steel wool....

Then I wipe the entire piece down with tack cloth. Tack cloth picks up EVERYTHING and is honestly the trick to getting a smooth finish! (I did not stain this table...that is the "natural" color of white oak and walnut with an oil finish)

After that I just wipe on a fresh coat of tung oil finish with my homemade sponge applicator...and the piece looks like new!!

Here you can see the scratches caused by kitty nails....

After a little steel wool, tack cloth and a fresh coat of oil...gone!

Today I re-oiled the top of my Drexel coffee table. After a year of use it had a few scratches and was beginning to look a little dull! Now...just like "new."

This is not something you can do with polyurethane!

I usually let the oil dry overnight before I apply another coat or before use!

To clean or dust, I just wipe down with a damp rag...then follow with a dry one.

Poly has its place in your DIY arsenal...but for me, oil finishes are best on any natural or stained wood piece especially if they will need touch up from time to time!

Whether you apply a stain or leave the wood natural, there is no durable finish that allows the beauty of a wood grain to show through as well as oil!!!

Info

18 Comments

Antique mirror makeover...

I know I have been MIA for the last few weeks, but I have SO many exciting new things going on...hopefully I can share in the next week!

I am chomping at the bit to share all the wonderful things going on around me...in due time. I have a post written but I am waiting on a few things to fall into place before sharing!

Because of the holidays and this crazy cold weather, I haven't really been able to project much. And because of the (fingers crossed) exciting new things going on, I have been frantically trying to get a few things done around my house...hardly worth pictures and a post!

So I dug through some of my old project pictures to find a simple project I have not shared to date. Something that can easily been done inside during these cold, dreary months!

One of the first things I stumbled on was this antique mirror. Naturally there is no "before" picture, but trust me, the frame was very worn, bland and generally unappealing...which is why it sat in my booth for MONTHS and did not sell. I finally brought it home, gave it a simple little chalk paint and distress treatment and BAM...it didn't last a week...

One of the reasons I wanted to share this project is because it is SO simple and it shows how such a simple "update" to an otherwise "outdated" piece can make a huge difference. I used the same treatment on the "old" pictures in my dining room and the change was simple but stunning!

I make my own "chalk paint." The recipe that works best for me is 2 1/2 tablespoons of Plaster of Paris, 1 1/2 tablespoons of warm water...mix well...than add 1 cup of latex paint. I like this recipe because it is super cheap, I can mix it up with ANY color of paint I have laying around and I can even mix two or three different colors of paint to get a "custom" shade.

I usually apply two coats of the chalk paint to a piece. Really no need to sand or prep. It dries super fast...within an hour. Then I distress a bit with 220 grit sand paper and then seal with a spray on poly. I know a lot of people like to wax their pieces...and that is okay if you want to get a certain "look." But I like the ease and durability of poly...to each his own!

New frames can be expensive but a simple little "makeover" on a dated frame or one that is just the wrong color can make a huge difference!

Info

4 Comments